Keith reviewed this wine:
2011 Hartford Family “Old Vines” Russian River Valley Zinfandel
Price: $55
Availability: Crowfoot, Highlander
Assessed by: Keith Robinson
Tasted: March 2014
Product Details: Grapes sourced from vines averaging over 85 years, dry farmed (not irrigated). 100% Zinfandel. Aged in French oak barrels. 15.9% Alcohol.
Hartford Family of Forestville, CA produce exceptional, polished, single vineyard Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. And one delightful Old Vines Zinfandel.
What does 'Old Vines' mean? Unfortunately no legal definition or criteria exist, so wine-makers are free to use the term as loosely or strictly as they wish. In the instance of this wine, however, the grapes are from decidedly old vines, over 85 years on average.
So what? What does the age of the vine matter? As the vine ages its vigour decreases. It produces less and less grapes, but puts all its energy into what grapes remain. Volume decreases, intensity and concentration increase. The partners of some human males of a certain age report a similar phenomena.
The tasting: Sunny and cheery, yet rugged. Friendly, but not soft or squishy. Think well-built, cheerful surfer. Deep fruit holds the high alcohol well, leaving a beautiful, rich mouth-feel. The only issue with this wine is its price. It sure is good, but is it $55 good?
Music Pairing: “California Dreaming” Beach Boys
When to drink: Drink on a cold Alberta evening with fireplace and someone special. Big plate of wings or ribs or, wait for it... chocolate cake.