Vegetables & Wine

April 9, 2008



By Judy Creighton

When it comes to the task of pairing vegetables with wine, an award-winning sommelier and wine writer is up to the challenge.

"A lot of us are eating a lot more than meat these days, and even if you haven't gone completely vegetarian, the move towards more healthy eating means there is a lot more greenery on our plates," says Natalie MacLean.

But she does agree the match between the plate and the glass becomes more challenging when it comes to seeking veggie-friendly wines.

Full-bodied red wines should be avoided because they contain tannins, she explains. These are the natural substance from the stems, skins and seeds of grapes that give wine a furry feeling on the tongue like over-steeped tea or walnuts.

"This natural compound in wine is really harsh with green vegetables," she explains. "Unlike a protein-packed juicy steak, vegetables have no protein. Tannin and protein work together and that is why a Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz goes well with a juicy steak or lamb."

MacLean says that, in general, white wines do much better than reds with vegetables.

However, she cautions that in this case high-alcohol white should be shunned because its fruit clashes with the zesty flavors of the vegetables.

Her choices to accompany vegetables include crisp whites with good acidity, such as bone-dry or off-dry German Riesling or a Vino Verde from Portugal.

"The ultimate veggie wine for me is a chilled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc," says MacLean. "It's like a salad in a glass."

Salads have their own wine needs, she says. A creamy salad dressing will soften the perception of bitterness in the wine.

"With mayonnaise you can drink a rounder, richer white wine like Chardonnay because it is nice and buttery."

For salads of mixed field greens, she opts for wines with a floral character.

"My favorite salad wine is lime-fresh Australian Riesling or a dry German Riesling."

When partnering wines with salad ingredients, such as cheese, nuts, herbs, bacon bits and mushrooms, MacLean suggests light red wines such as Pinot Noir, Chinon or Bardolino.

If serving wine with potatoes, squash, corn or sweet potatoes, MacLean recommends an oaky buttery Chardonnay, because these are starchy vegetables with no acidity.

As we head into barbecue season, grilled vegetables with their deeper flavors and smoky nuances call for a fuller body on both reds and whites, "although you are still dealing with a tannin, no-protein issue," she says.

MacLean's book Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass was chosen the Best Wine Literature Book in the English language at the recent Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

For more information on her chatty and informative online newsletter, visit www.nataliemaclean.com.




Your mom told you to eat your veggies and she was right. We all need five to 10 servings of greens a day, according to Canada's Food Guide to Healthy Eating, whether vegetarian or meat-eater. And those who give up meat don't necessarily give up the fruit of the vine.

Bet your mom didn't tell you which wines go best with a leafy salad, or other vegetarian dishes, though, did she?
Sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean of Ottawa comes to the rescue with her suggestions on pairing her favourite drink with vegetables. Here, a nice light white wine is the perfect dinner companion for Asparagus Pizza with Tomato.


Asparagus Pizza with Tomatoes

Makes four servings

1 store-bought thin pizza crust

1 teaspoon (5 mL) olive oil

1 tomato, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) dried Italian seasoning or basil

1/4 cup (50 mL) very thin strips red onion

1/2 lb (250 g) barely cooked asparagus, cut into 3-inch (7.5-cm) pieces

1/2 130-g pkg creamy goat cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons (30 mL) coarsely grated Parmesan

3 or 4 fresh basil leaves, shredded

Place oven rack on lowest shelf. Preheat oven to 400øF (200øC).

Place crust on pizza pan or baking sheet. Brush crust with oil. Arrange tomato slices on top, followed by Italian seasoning, onion and then asparagus. Sprinkle with goat and Parmesan cheeses.

Bake in oven following package directions until pizza is hot, six to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with basil leaves.

Wine match: Chablis, unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Beaujolais or Gamay.

Recipe source: California Asparagus Commission.




Mixed Asian-Style Vegetables

Makes eight servings

1 tablespoon (15 mL) reduced-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon (15 mL) oyster sauce

2 tablespoons (30 mL) fresh-squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar

2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 serrano chilies or jalapeno chilies, seeded and thinly sliced diagonally

3 scallions, thinly sliced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch (5-mm) pieces

1/4 lb (125 g) snow peas

1 Japanese eggplant, cut into 1/4-inch (5-mm) cubes

1/4 lb (125 g) mushrooms, stems removed and caps cut in wedges

1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

3 small heads baby bok choy, cored and thinly sliced

1/2 cup (125 mL) loosely packed basil leaves, cut into thin shreds

In a small bowl, stir together soy sauce, oyster sauce, lime juice and sugar. Set aside.

In a large non-stick skillet or wok over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add garlic and chilies. Stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add scallions, bell pepper, snow peas, eggplant, mushrooms and ginger. Stir-fry for two minutes. Add bok choy. Stir-fry until wilted, about one minute. Add soy sauce mixture. Stir-fry until vegetables are crisp-tender, about one minute. Stir in basil and serve at once.

Wine match: Off-dry Canadian or German Riesling, Gewurztraminer, New World Pinot Noir.

Recipe source: Vegetables For Vitality (Reader's Digest).



Sweet Potato Salad

Makes four servings

1 lb (500 g) sweet potatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick slices

3 tablespoons (45 mL) olive oil

1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh-squeezed lemon juice (approx)

1 tablespoon (15 mL) orange juice

1 teaspoon (5 mL) honey

1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) salt

1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) black pepper

1 medium bunch arugula, torn into pieces

1 navel orange, peeled and cut into sections

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced crosswise

3 tablespoons (45 mL) raisins

Preheat oven to 400øF (200øC). Line a large baking pan with foil and lightly coat with cooking spray.

Toss sweet potatoes on pan with one tablespoon (15 mL) of the oil. Spread in an even layer. Roast potatoes until tender and lightly browned, about 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together remaining two tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil, lemon juice, orange juice, honey, salt and pepper. Taste dressing and add another one tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice, if desired.

In a large bowl, toss together warm potatoes and dressing. Add arugula, orange sections, onion and raisins. Toss to mix.

Wine match: Off-dry Riesling or Chenin Blanc.

Recipe source: Vegetables For Vitality (Reader's Digest Canada).



Serving wines with vegetables

Here are some tips on pairing vegetables with wine:

Avoid wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz as they can overpower vegetables and their tannins will clash as well.

Choose instead soft, smooth-textured fruity ones like Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sangiovese.

Avoid high-alcohol whites; their fruit is in contrast with the zesty flavours of vegetables.

Wines with a floral character do well with simple field greens.

A richer rounder white goes well with salads tossed with a creamy salad dressing.

Source: www.nataliemaclean.com.




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